Basics of Training
Understand that everything is tied together. The skills used in one aspect of training apply to all other aspects. Teaching a horse to "go" is intrinsicly tied to teaching a horse to stop.
Make training enjoyable
If you're not having fun, neither is your horse. Don't view it as work. Consider it a game. You are playing with your horse. Games have rules. Teach your horse the rules of the game.
Work mode and play mode.
There are times to play and there are times to work. If your horse likes to nuzzle you and you're fine with it, cool... but never allow them to nuzzle, rub, push, or beg for treats during "work". If you're in work mode, a good rule-of-thumb is to stand at arms length from your horse; where you can reach them and they can't reach you. The most important part is that you, yourself, know when it's work time and play time... if you don't know the difference, neither will they.
Train often
The average horse needs to be worked three times per week for an hour at a time. There are 168 hours in a week... 3 hours per week is attainable.
Grooming
Your horse should be comfortable being groomed and touched everywhere. Face, ears, legs, sheath, hooves... even under the tail. If you can't touch your horse everywhere, there is more work to do. This is the first and most crucial step in gaining your horse's trust.
Continue until told otherwise
If a horse is told to walk; they should continue walking until told to stop. If a horse is told to stand still, they should not move until told to go.
Standing still
Don't underestimate the importance of a horse that can stand still.
A horse must stand still to be groomed.
A horse must stand still to get shoes
A horse must stand still to be saddled.
A horse must stand still for a rider to mount.
Individual skills
Each skill that is taught to a horse should be able to be broken down into various parts. Even something simple like picking up a foot is taught in stages: 1) comfortable being touched, 2) yielding to pressure, 3) balancing on 3 legs, and 4) patience having a foot held.
Advance and retreat
If a horse is worried about an area being touched, start in an area they are comfortable with. Move toward the concerning area and retreat before they show discomfort. Continue advancing and retreating toward the area with the goal of getting closer. Don't violate their trust. Have a goal of gaining their trust with small victories.
Yielding to pressure
Pressure can be body language, vocal, or physical touch. If pressure is placed on the shoulder, the horse should take a side step away from the pressure... and they should do so with only the front feet. If pressure is placed on the hind-quarter, they should step to the side using only the hind feet. If pressure is placed on the top of the head, they should lower their head. This should be possible with every part of their body. The opposite of this is if you push on your horse and they lean back into you.
Pressure and Release
The goal is to use as little pressure as required and as much as necessary. Imagine a scale of 0-10. Consider zero as a reward. Zero is a lack of pressure. Level one can be body language. Two can be vocal. Three can be a tap or a poke. Four is a harder tap or poke. five...you get the idea. Level one has power because of the threat of level two. Level two has power because of the threat of level three and so on. Level ten is never our goal. Our goal is to use the most subtle cue to gain the desired outcome.
If you only ever shout at your horse they will never hear you whisper.
Make the desirable behaviour easy
Make the bad behaviour difficult
The easiest way to describe this is to imagine training a horse to load in a trailer. Inside the trailer is restful and there is no pressure... but "oh, you want to be outside the trailer? That's fine, but there's a lot of work out here". Lets say the horse will hop in, but immediately hops out of the trailer... That's fine; don't try to stop them. If you want to be outside the trailer, just know there is work to be done out here... but it's restful inside the trailer.
Desensitizing.
If your horse is scared having their ears touched, you could avoid touching their ears for the rest of their life ...OR, you can teach them that it's no big deal. Desensitiving is not simply touching their ears till they like it. This can violate their trust. There is no "one way" to desensitize.
Mix it up.
If you only lunge to the left, your horse will have difficulty going to the right.
If you only ever mount your horse from the near side then they will shy away when you try from the off side.
If you always do "this" then "that" will always be problematic.
(This doesn't mean that you shouldn't be consistant with your training. You can be consistant and keep things mixed up. It's a balance).
Right and left side
Anything taught on the right side needs to be taught on the other. They will learn a bit quicker the second time, but anticipate starting from square one for the second side.
It's been said that "Every time you touch a horse; you are training a horse."
Another way that could be said is;
"If you aren't training your horse: your horse is training you."
Training a horse is not a one-time event... nor is training something that only happens when they are young. Training is a life-long responsibility. Be cautious of creating or allowing bad habits.
